Thailand travel 17. Life and death in Chiang Khong by the Mekong
We leave Chiang Khong for the Laos border crossing. By the time we get on the tuc-tuc buses, backpacks on the roof, a little group of three French women journos, a Japanese man who will join me for buffalo for dinner at the Pakbeng overnight stop, a French pair, a Dutch pair, an Australian couple, a Mexican man and myself have all done some bonding.
Thailand travel 16. Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong and the Mekong
Snap some shots at a Chiang Rai flower market. Head back to pick up bags from The North hotel. Then 90 seconds to the Chiang Rai bus depot. A red bus this time. Local “milk train” bus. Three tiny ceiling fans. I head for the long back seat so I can put my backpacks in the large open area between me and the regular double row of double seats.
Thailand travel 15. Onward from Chiangmai to ‘foodie’ Chiang Rai
From the bus to Chiang Rai see many rice paddies cut into the tropical vegetation, when the areas are flat. Women (and men?) in those large-brimmed conical hats. Look like themed movie-set paddies. Make mental note to do the unaccustomed and eat rice here.
Thailand travel 14. Sunday Walking Street Chiangmai and artist dinner
An hour is not enough time to get there. Again I am a monsoon by the time I concede defeat. Am past where the map indicates he lives, when I show the address to a woman standing with friends down an alleyway. She calls the number. She talks in Thai. She tells me to go stand on the corner I just rounded and someone will fetch me. And so it is I meet Buppha when she picks me up on her scooter. Takes me to their house. Serves two scrummy dishes she’s cooked, fresh, spiced, nutted, then goes off to her shop near the night market.
Thailand travel 13. Was my inmate masseuse a killer or an addict?
No sooner than I am settled on my belly wondering which way to put my head as only at one place in Thailand did I get a massage bed with a hole for your face or head to settle into that I had thought was standard, she is on top of me. Elbows, feet, heels, hands, fists, full body weight at the ready.
Thailand travel 12. Solo travel for women and boomers
Many people travel with someone who is not fun to be with because they feel they cannot travel alone. And many people don’t travel because they don’t have the right (or wrong) person to travel with. And that’s a real shame…
Thailand travel 11. Chiangrai Saturday walking street food feast
Near the city gates in Chiangmai on Saturday night is a fabulous street food market frequented by locals and tourists that stretches on and on and has irresistible “everything” from whole fish being grilled over the fire, coated in coarse salt, to fat prawns and squid and — you name it. Smells, visual temptations and fresh fruit stands.
Thailand travel 10. To market, to market in Chiangmai and boomer no-buy joy
Walk down my side of the Ping River to upscale coffee shops and arty places. At some point across the Ping to Talat Warorot, which I now know is Chiangmai’s oldest and most famous market. Right next door to Talat Ton Lam Yai, which is the city’s fresh flower market.
Thailand travel 9. Monk chat with Nit and foot massage envy
The young monk’s English is broken, but OK. I have been surprised at the unselfconscious lack of English to date. “Thailand has never been colonized,” the young man explains. Guess a self-confidence comes with that. Of “just being Thai.” He says here in Thailand they belong to the Theravada school of Buddhism. Asks me if I know anything about Buddhism. I tell him I lived for three years at the San Francisco Zen Center. Have meditated for many.
Thailand travel 8. Upward (literally) and onward to Chiangmai
The swashbuckling mystery man from the tow path near Oxford writes, the night before I fly out: “You going to Thailand? On a whim? For four weeks? Wow. Well, if you find yourself in Chiang Mai or Chiangmai https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_Mai , you might want to look into the ‘monk’s chat’ option. You go talk to a monk at a monastery. It’s so they can practice their English.”